Hi

I am contemplating the mega squirt ecu for my uz fe - of the users using it -

what would you do differently ?

would you choose the mega squirt again ?

what extras are worth while ?

And can you get it to work with the std cam / crank sensors and the stock idle air control valve ?

help !

Hello,
I'm running a MS-I v3.0 in my 1997 240sx 1UZ swap. It was the first time I had tried a full stand alone and I found it very easy. It did take some tinkering to get the circuit set up correctly because the board was originally set up to run on a Hall Effect sensor. I am using the stock crank wheel with a tooth ground off (12-1 set up) and the stock distributors. It is great. After getting all of the hardware setup, it took less than an hour of playing with the software to get it on the street. I have put over 2000 miles in daily traffic with only 30 more minutes of tuning.

Would I do it again? Absolutely! I am actually about to do another swap in 2 months on a friends car. He has already built the ecu and wiring harness.

The only extras that are needed cost about $15. You will need to build the tach circuit and wire in a second igniter circuit.

The only other thing I would do is not be lazy like me and actually wire in an idle air control valve. I went the quick way and just cracked the throttle plate. This method works ok if you don't mind it being a little hard to start when the temp get down to about 30F.

If you need any more info, just hit me up on email.
s14asilvia@gmail.com

Watty

Thread resurrection:

I was talking with lance (Esteban from Toymods) about sensors on his 1UZ - he wanted to run MS with EDIS on his when the motor has a car to live in.

How have folks gone with using the factory sensors and what VR interfaces did you use/build?

I've used the LM1815 to interface with a 22RE VR sensor as it looked 103456 times easier than 'tuning' the VR interface as found on the MS 3 boards - and I was hoping that MS users might have gone down this route as well.

cheers,
Charles.

i just ground one tooth off the 12 tooth oem trigger wheel - making it a 12-1
i used the std toyota sensor
i put a small resistor in place and shielded the wires to the ecu from the crank pickup
it would run fine until 3k rpm then misifre until the resistor was put in - i did battle to figure out hte need for a resistor - i changed sensors - trigger wheels etc etc etc - but the fix was
so damn simple
if i were doing it again - i would put a variable resistor in and adjust that until it was clean - then measure the resistance of the variable doodah - replace with fixed resistor - wrap it all up and job done - nevewr to be thought of again

I will be using Megasquirt for my 1uz-TT setup... I cannot friggen wait!

I am still learning all the logistics behind it, wish someone had a baseline I could go off of.

Hello, newbie here. I have LS400 ´90. I´m planning to spice it up with
twin turbos. If I use mega, how will automatic transmission works? Or are
those even related? Does that transmission use stock engine ecu somehow?

Thanks.

contact devojet on msefi i "think" he has built a trans controller to work with ms
neil

Megasquirt v2.2 user here in my 1uzx73 Cressida. I also have EDis and a 36-1 Trigger wheel. Using GM sensors and Ford's VR. She kicks ass!!!

I'll be running a 1uzfe fully sequential as soon as I get my latest swap monster finished. Probably expect some elaboration late winter, or next spring. Basics are I will be using the stock crank and one cam sensor unmodified except for the removal of the distributor mounting ring.
Its possible, and I have installed and run and own vehicles with various tunes in megasquirt 1 and 2.
Most notable of which is actually a recently finished project. 2001 stratus r/t with a 3.8mivec swap (6g75) running a 62-1 turbo. Completely stock internals and about 6psi. Everything including the tach and mivec is run by the megasquirt.

dpf22